Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds form.

It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. But one local grower has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just above Bristol town centre.

"I've seen people hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce vintage from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments across the city. The project is sufficiently underground to have an official name yet, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Vineyards Across the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Vineyards assist urban areas remain greener and more diverse. They preserve land from development by creating long-term, yielding agricultural units within cities," explains the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and history of a city," adds the president.

Mystery Eastern European Variety

Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."

Group Activities Throughout the City

Additional participants of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about fifty plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can keep cultivating from the soil."

Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking

Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines slung across the hillside with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of making wine."

"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces and enter the juice," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches

A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. However it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to erect a fence on

Felicia Montes
Felicia Montes

An avid hiker and outdoor enthusiast sharing trail experiences and gear advice from years of exploration.