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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.